The story of Mokuula is a story of kings and queens, of religion
and restoration, of cultural destruction and spiritual renewal.
The story takes place on what is now a dusty baseball field in the
tourist town of Lahaina on the Hawaiian island of Maui. Beneath the
field are the ruins of what was once the home of Hawaiian monarchy.
The park where the baseball field now lies fallow (sporting stopped when
human remains were found under the field) was once a 17-acre lake. The
lake was sacred to Hawaiians, as it was said to be the home of a
powerful lizard goddess named Kihawahine.
The deity symbolized the importance of water in the Hawaiian culture,
said Akoni Akana, executive director of the Friends of Mokuula.
Water means wealth, said Akana. The Hawaiian word for water,
wai, can be found throughout the language referring to
riches and abundance, he explained.
In the center of the sacred lake was Mokuulaa one-acre
island that housed the high chiefs of Maui and royalty of Hawaii from
the 16th to 19th centuries. Hawaiian kings moved to the island hoping to
benefit from living beside the water-dwelling goddess, explained Akana.
Although the site survived early European colonization, the last royal
family to live on the island left their home in 1845 when the Hawaiian
capitol was moved to Honolulu. In the late 1800s, the lakes water
was diverted to sugar plantations and mills. By 1914, the lake had been
filled in, and the land was converted into a public park.
AN ARCHAEOLOGICAL FIELD OF DREAMS
The story of the sacred Lahainan island was revived in the early 1990s
when employees of a local hotel began research the history of
pre-contact Lahaina.
Research by local volunteers pointed to the Lahaina park's baseball
field and parking lot as the location of the island of Mokuula. An
archeological dig in 1993 confirmed the location of the island,
inspiring supporters of the project, who formed the non-profit Friends
of Mokuula, to donate time and money to expand the search.
Friends of Mokuula plans to continue the excavation, eventually
restoring the site to its former glory. Underground springs will be
uncovered, fish will be reintroduced, and grass houses will be rebuilt.
The group still faces financial obstacles, however, as well as the
dilemma of where to move the Lahaina public park.
Do you know what it takes to get people to give up a baseball
field? Akona asked. If you live in paradise, you forget what
you have.
REDISCOVERING A LOST HAWAII
Although the physical restoration of Mokuula may still be years
down the road, Akana said the journey itself has begun to restore pride
in Hawaiian culture.
Many of these young men were selling drugs [near the park],
he said, pointing at a photo of members of a newly-formed Mokuula
cultural organization. [But] they have learned that they do have a
responsibility. They will be doing the work to restore this wonderful
place.
Restored spirituality and pride in the Hawaiian culture are some of the
most important benefits of the Mokuula discovery, said Akana.
Things came out when we opened up the ground, he said.
Things that we lost came out.