Karin Muller knows all about independent travel. Author, documentary filmmaker, and cultural adventurer, Muller has produced several books and films tracing her solo backpacking adventures, including the 2000 National Geographic book Along the Inca Road and an accompanying National Geographic television series.
Muller also leads regular National Geographic tours to Perupart of the National Geographic Expeditions travel program.
For travelers ready to branch off into more remote terrain, Muller recommends visiting the town of Cajamarca, where the Inca king Altahualpa was caught by the Spanish, held for ransom, and later beheaded.
A visit to the northern Huaringas area will enable travelers to meet curanderos, or shamans, who hold specialized healing ceremonies. "You may not believe in its medical efficacy, but it's an incredible cultural experience," Muller said.
For Muller, traveling is all about making meaningful connections with the local communities she journeys througha philosophy she encourages all travelers to practice. "Become a participant, whether that's [through] music or talking or going to unusual places or participating in a festival," Muller said. "The moment you participate, your entire experience changes."
Such opportunities can be as basic as buying potatoes at a local Peruvian market, asking a nearby vendor or the hotel staff to prepare them, and then sharing the resulting meal, Muller says. Potatoes are a staple crop in Peru, having been cultivated since pre-Inca times, and come in many varietiesa great catalyst for conversation.
"Part of it is just bringing the right attitude along," observed Muller. Genuine inquisitiveness, generosity of spirit, and willingness to try, Muller believes, translate across all languages. "What you're saying [by participating] is, You and I are not all that differentand I'm interested in something that's important to you."
No Place Like Home
Some people who come to visit Peru find they want to staywhich is precisely what happened to National Geographic Expeditions Council grantee Peter Frost, who discovered the Inca settlement Qoriwayrachina.
Frost first visited Peru in the 1970s and was hooked. A London native, Frost eventually moved to the United States and began leading tours to Peru for Berkeley, California-based travel company, Wilderness Travel. When the back-and-forth travel became too much, Frost chose to relocate again.
Now a 17-year resident of Cusco, Frost can't recommend the country highly enough. "If you can take the time, you'll never get bored in this place," he said.
Frost refers first-time visitors to the southern section of Peru, because it holds some of the country's most famous sites, like Machu Picchu and Lake Titicaca. "They're sort of classic standards for a reason," Frost said. "They're very spectacular and pretty accessible."
For those travelers interested in Peru's ecological wonders, Frost recommends Tambopata-Candamo Reserve and Manu National Park. These two protected areas, which lie southeast of Cuzco, encompass rich Amazonian rain foresthome to a multitude of rare animal and plant species.
Returning visitors should turn their attention north, Frost says. There, travelers can see pre-Incan archaeological sites such as Chan Chan, an ancient Chimú city near present-day Trujillo, and the Túcume pyramids outside of Lambayeque.
The town of Lambayeque itself hosts the newly opened Royal Tombs of Sipán Museum. Housing artifacts of the Moche people, the museum is designed like one of their pyramids.
Culinary adventures also await Peru's visitors. Frost suggests trying cebiche (aka seviche), a popular dish of raw fish marinated in lime juice with onion and spices. For the cooked variety, the coastal cities of Lima and Chiclayo "have absolutely marvelous seafood," Frost said.
A more recent cooking trend worth noting, Frost says, is the rise of Novo Andina, or New Andean, cuisine. These dishes use mostly traditional Andean ingredients, such as the meat of the camel-like alpaca (a low-cholesterol red meat) and quinoa (a highland grain rich in protein).
With so much to do and see, does Frost have any other parting advice for travelers in his adopted homeland? "Beware of falling in love with the place, because of what happened to me," warned Frost. "I couldn't leave!"
NOTE: U.S. travelers visiting Peru should be aware of the recent U.S. Treasury ruling prohibiting U.S. citizens from using the Peruvian airline, Aero Continente (see State Department: Peru and U.S. Deparment of the Treasury. The airlinethe major domestic carrierwas recently grounded by the Peruvian government due to its lack of insurance coverage. All travelers are advised to get advance confirmation of flights on other airlines, as air travel within the country is currently difficult to obtain.
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