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That night, we return to Buttree's stilted wood house, where his wife, Busaba, prepares a sumptuous dinner of blue crab, red snapper, and lobsterlike mantis shrimp. As I dig in, I tell Buttree this is the freshest seafood I've ever eaten. I should know: I watched him catch it.
REST runs tours to Kao Yao Noh (www. ecotour.in.th). If you're in Phuket, you can take one of the daily boats to Koh Yao Noi from the Bang Rong Pier on Phuket's northeast coast.
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Watch for the announcement of the 2004 World Legacy winners on June 8.
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