But not millions.

Eric Lucas writes from Vashon Island, Washington.

For responsible spirit-bear viewing, either stay at the King Pacific Lodge, from U.S. $883 per night inclusive (888-592-5464); or, far cheaper, book a tour in Hartley Bay with a Git-ga'at guide, 250-841-2602.

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SOURCES AND RELATED WEB SITES National Geographic Traveler Magazine Spirit Bear Youth Coalition Princess Royal Island